Sex toys are almost entirely unregulated. They're generally classified as novelty items rather than medical devices, which means no agency is verifying what's in them, and "body-safe" is a marketing phrase with no legal definition behind it.
The practical consequence: a soft, squishy, cheap toy can be riddled with microscopic channels that hold bacteria no amount of scrubbing removes, and can be made with plasticisers you wouldn't knowingly put anywhere near mucous membrane. Meanwhile a well-made silicone toy can be boiled and will outlast the relationship.
Here's how to tell which one you're holding, how to clean each material properly, and the lubricant mistake that quietly ruins good toys.
The one thing that matters most: porous vs non-porous
Everything else is detail. A non-porous surface has no microscopic holes, so fluids, bacteria and fungi stay on the surface where soap and water can remove them. A porous material is shot through with tiny channels that trap microbes below the surface, where cleaning cannot reach them.
A porous toy cannot be sterilised. Not with soap, not with toy cleaner, not with anything. That's why porous toys are associated with recurrent infections, and why the standard advice for them is to always use a condom — you're creating the non-porous barrier the toy doesn't have.
Porous materials are also the ones most likely to contain phthalates, plasticisers used to soften plastic that are linked to endocrine disruption. They're restricted in children's toys in the US and EU. They are not restricted in adult toys.
The safe four
| Material | Why it's safe | How to clean it |
|---|---|---|
| Medical-grade (platinum-cured) silicone | Non-porous, inert, hypoallergenic, no plasticisers. Soft but stable — won't degrade from body heat or washing. The gold standard. | Warm water and mild fragrance-free soap. If it's fully waterproof and motor-free, it can be boiled 5–10 minutes. |
| Borosilicate glass | Completely non-porous, tougher than it looks, holds temperature well. | Soap and water, or boil. Inspect for chips before every use — a chipped glass toy is retired, not repaired. |
| Stainless steel | Non-porous, extremely durable, effectively permanent. Heavy, which some people want and others don't. | Soap and water. Most grades can be boiled — check the manufacturer. |
| ABS plastic | Hard, non-porous, phthalate-free. Common for the handles and bodies of vibrators. | Soap and water, or wipe with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Don't boil. |
What to avoid
- Jelly rubber — porous, frequently contains phthalates, and often has that unmistakable chemical smell. The worst offender.
- TPE and TPR (thermoplastic elastomer/rubber) — soft, cheap, porous. "Phthalate-free" TPE can still contain other additives, and it degrades over time regardless.
- PVC — porous and usually softened with plasticisers.
- Cyberskin, UR3, "real feel" blends — the most porous category, and impossible to sanitise. If you own one, condom only, and accept a limited lifespan.
- Latex — not toxic, but a genuine allergen for a meaningful number of people, and porous.
How to tell without the packaging
Three field tests, in order of reliability:
- Smell it. This is the single biggest red flag. Silicone, glass and steel are nearly odourless. A strong plastic or chemical smell means porous material and probably plasticisers.
- Feel it. Body-safe silicone has a dry, slightly grippy drag. Porous materials feel soft, squishy and faintly tacky — and get tackier as they age. If two toys are stuck together in a drawer and have started melting into each other, both are porous. Store those separately.
- Read the listing. If a product page won't state the exact material, treat the silence as an answer. "Silicone blend" and "soft touch material" are both ways of not saying TPE.
Price is a rough proxy but not a guarantee — plenty of expensive toys are TPE with good branding. The smell test beats the price tag.
Cleaning, properly
The basics
- Before and after every single use. After is obvious; before matters because toys collect dust, lint and whatever else lives in the drawer.
- Warm water and mild, fragrance-free soap. Unscented hand soap is fine. Dedicated toy cleaner is convenient, not magic.
- Never use antibacterial or fragranced soap on anything that goes internally — residue irritates vaginal tissue and disturbs the microbiome you want to leave alone. Same logic as our vulva care guide.
- Dry completely with a lint-free cloth or air-dry before storing. Damp storage grows things.
- Store in a breathable bag, separated by material, not loose in a drawer.
Motorised toys
Never submerge anything that isn't explicitly waterproof, and never boil a toy with a motor in it. Wipe the body, wash the removable sleeve if there is one, and keep water away from charging ports. Rechargeable and magnetically charged toys are generally more water-resistant than battery compartments with a screw cap.
When to sterilise rather than wash
Boiling or a 10% bleach solution is warranted after an infection, before sharing a toy between partners, and when switching a toy between anal and vaginal use — though honestly, for anal play the simplest answer is a dedicated toy with a flared base that never goes anywhere else.
When to throw it away
Any tackiness, stickiness, colour change, cracking, tearing or a smell that survives washing. Chips in glass. Corrosion on steel. And any porous toy that was used during an infection — it can't be decontaminated, and it will reinfect you.
The lubricant mistake
Silicone lubricant on a silicone toy can cause the toy's surface to degrade, going tacky and gummy and permanently ruined. Not always, and not instantly — formulations vary and high-grade platinum silicone is more resistant — but often enough that the rule is worth following.
Water-based lubricant is compatible with everything. Every material, every toy, latex condoms included. It's the default for a reason.
A few more pairings worth knowing:
- Oil-based products degrade latex, so they're out with latex condoms — including when you're using a condom over a porous toy. Our CBD Intimate Oil is oil-based, so it's a skin-and-hands product rather than a latex-and-toys one.
- Glass and steel are compatible with any lubricant — no material to degrade.
- If you're unsure with a silicone toy, patch-test on the base and leave it half an hour, or just use water-based. Our Hydro Glide Relief Intimate Serum is a comfortable everyday option.
Beyond compatibility, the formula still matters for your body: fragrance-free, and mindful of osmolality and pH, since hyperosmolar lubricants damage the vaginal epithelial barrier. Our lubricant guide covers how to read a label for that.
Toys and infection risk
Shared or poorly cleaned toys can transmit STIs, including HPV and HSV, and can carry bacteria that trigger BV or a yeast infection. Practical rules:
- Use a fresh condom on a shared toy, changed between partners
- Never move a toy from anus to vagina without washing it or changing the condom — this is one of the more common causes of avoidable infection
- Anything used anally needs a flared base, without exception
- If you get recurrent BV or thrush, your toys and their cleaning routine belong on the list of suspects — our guide to telling BV and yeast infections apart covers what else drives recurrence
- If penetration is painful, that's worth addressing before assuming you need a different toy — see pain during sex and your pelvic floor
Frequently asked questions
Can you boil a sex toy?
Only if it's 100% silicone, glass or steel with no motor, no battery compartment and no electronics. Five to ten minutes in boiling water. Never boil anything with a motor, and never boil porous materials — they'll deform, and it won't sterilise them anyway.
Is TPE actually dangerous?
The bigger issue is porosity rather than acute toxicity. TPE can't be sterilised, so it accumulates bacteria over its life and is linked to recurrent infections. It also degrades and gets tackier with age. If you own TPE toys, use condoms with them and replace them regularly rather than keeping them for years.
Do I need a special sex toy cleaner?
No. Mild fragrance-free soap and warm water does the same job. Toy cleaner is a convenience product — useful if it makes you more likely to actually clean things.
Why did my silicone toy go sticky?
Usually silicone lubricant reacting with the surface, or the toy wasn't real silicone to begin with and is degrading with age. Either way it's not recoverable — a tacky surface is trapping bacteria, so replace it.
How often should toys be replaced?
Good silicone, glass and steel can last many years with proper care. Porous materials should be treated as consumables — replace them at the first sign of tackiness, discolouration or persistent smell, and always after an infection.
Are sex toys regulated for safety?
Largely no. They're typically sold as novelty items, so there's no mandatory testing of materials and no legal standard behind the phrase "body-safe." The burden of checking sits with you — which is exactly why the smell and feel tests are worth knowing.
The bottom line
Buy non-porous — silicone, glass, steel or ABS. Distrust anything soft, squishy and cheap, and distrust anything that smells of chemicals. Wash before and after with plain unscented soap, dry it properly, store it separately. Use water-based lubricant if you want one rule that never causes a problem.
Keep reading
- How to Choose a Lubricant: Water-Based vs Silicone vs Oil-Based
- The Ultimate Guide to Solo Pleasure
- Vulva Care 101: What Your Intimate Skin Actually Needs
- BV vs Yeast Infection: How to Tell the Difference
This article is for general education and isn't medical advice. Privy Peach products are intended for comfort and pleasure and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any condition.